Olivier’s major parcel is at the top of the vineyard, right under the scrub of Mont-Rachet, with ChevalierMontrachet just over the hill. The southeast aspect gives a taut feel to the wine but, nonetheless, it is intense and imposing. Drink 2023-2030.

This is another small harvest for Olivier. There was frost again in 2017 for the vineyards closest to Puligny and Olivier’s detailed vineyard work on the vines badly frosted in 2016 has restricted this year’s yield as well. For some cuvées, volumes in white for 2017 are half that of the already paltry 2016. Olivier began harvesting before his neighbours, which is not unusual, on 25th August, but he likes the style of the vintage, in particular the extra density on the palate. His reds he defines as croquant (crunchy).

2017 Domaine Hubert Lamy En Remilly Saint-Aubin Premier Cru